Bird Care Guide!

Bird Care

Reference Guide

Contents:

-First Day Home with a New Bird

-Housing

-Feeding

-General Care

-List of Safe Foods

-List of Unsafe Foods

-List of Safe Houseplants

-List of Unsafe Houseplants

-List of Toxic Dangers

*This is only a short guide, and information is added or changed as further knowledge is gained. More information and information specific to different species of birds can be learned through online forums, articles, websites and books.

First Days Home With A New Bird!

The first few days for your new bird are very important for you and your new friend, and special care must be taken to make this transition as easy and low stress as possible. Different approaches must be taken for different species of birds, and consideration must be taken as to if the bird is handfed, semi-tame or untame.

Preparing for a new bird

A suitable cage should be made ready, placed adjacent, but not in the middle of, household activity. Make sure the cage is against one wall to help the bird feel secure, the food and water dishes are within easy reach of the perch, and not too many toys are placed inside the cage. I provide both seed and pellet to help ease the transition to new food, and for the first day use the food that I provide. After the first day, mix the food I provide and the food that you will be using half and half, letting the bird slowly get used to a new diet. This is also a good time to bird proof your home for out of cage birds, taking special care about open doors and windows, uncovered glass, ceiling fans and other dangers listed later in this guide.

Handfed Birds

Some birds, such as the Sun Conjures and many of the green cheek conjures and their various color mutations, are very outgoing, confident and friendly. Suns especially so, and they will usually swarm you as soon as you open the transport box, wanting to play and interact. Still, out of cage time should be limited to half an hour at a time for the first day, with plenty of resting time in between outings. This can be increased to an hour at a time by the second or third day. After that, they will be settled in, calmer and more used to all the new faces and hands. Many of these birds are out of cage for most of or all of the day, only going back in to sleep or eat, and all are wonderful constant companions.

Smaller tame birds, such as parrotlets, lovebirds and budgies, require more care and patience. When you get home, put your bird in the cage and let him be. He needs time to adjust to his surroundings. No matter how cute he is, how much you want to show him off, or how much the kids want to have him perch on their fingers, let your bird be. For the first day simply let them get used to their new cages with all the new sights, sounds and smells of their new home. By all means talk to your new bird, but keep everyone calm and quiet,, remember, a newly weaned bird is still a baby! By the second day they can be handled for short periods, half an hour at a time a couple of times a day. Slowly increase the daily handling time and frequency over the next few days to prevent over exciting and stressing the bird. These smaller birds are often in a state of shock when they arrive at a new home. Sometimes you may not see them eat or drink for a day or two as they acclimate, this is normal and will pass. It is totally understandable for everyone in your family to want to play and spend time with a new baby birdie, but you must remember that until this time the baby bird has only known one person, only been handled by one person in a calm nursery and has only interacted with other baby birds.

Having several people trying to handle the bird, chase the bird around the room if it flies away, being passed from new person to new person, and being handled by understandably excited young children, can be very stressful. Even if your new bird seems super friendly and eager to have contact, they are still being stressed and over excited. If this over excited condition goes on too long or is induced too often in the first few days it can lead to injury, illness and even death. Heart attacks and strokes are possible, as well as panic induced injury and stomach upset.

After the first two or three days your bird will be much calmer and easier to handle. More timid birds such as parrotlets, lovebirds and especially handfed budgies, might require more patience than the more outgoing conures and quakers, but each bird is as different as each family. Sometimes they are super happy and friendly right from day one, and love to cuddle and play, and sometimes it can take a few days to a few weeks to get that cuddly little ball of feathers that loves to spend all day on your shoulder pressed into your neck. Patience and routine is the key, calm and confident handling, and of course treats always help. A good place to start is simply being around the cage, talking to the bird, putting your hand in the cage and having the bird step up, letting it out of the cage to fly around, having the bird step down from your finger to your lap, arm or shoulder, and just spending time together.

Semi-Tame Birds

Much the same applies to semi-tame birds, handfed birds that have not been handled in a while because of egg laying or coming from another home. In the case of the birds, they should not be handled for a week or two, and their cage should be placed in a quieter part of the home. They will require more patience to make fully hand tame, simply allowing them out of cage time is a good place to start, then enticing them to approach you with treats. Eventually a finger can be offered to step up on, although some birds are hand shy and prefer to land on a shoulder to top of the head

Untame Birds

Untame birds prefer to be left alone as much as possible for the first couple of weeks, and can eventually be moved to where they can watch, but not be too close to, the rest of the family. Untame adult birds should not be allowed out of cage unless an experienced bird person is available, as attempting to catch these birds can be very stressful with a high risk of injury, especially in larger species. Aggression and biting is also possible. For these reasons I very rarely sell untame parrots, usually only for breeding purposes.

Finches and Canaries

These birds are untame, and should not be handled or touched at all, as this is very stressful for them, even if they sit still and show no signs of panic their little hearts are racing. Keep them quiet for a few days, and if there are already other birds in the cage observe closely, and have a backup cage available in case quarreling is observed.

And as always remember, this is only a short guide! Do all the research and reading you can, but always take into consideration that everything you read online is opinion, and many people make videos and write articles not because they want to share their wealth of knowledge, but because they want views, likes and comments. Check the source, take your grains of salt, and double check everything that sounds important. I have done hundreds of hours of online and analog research, talked to hundreds of people, and encountered more than my fair share of the bird equivalent of anti-vaxxers, flat-earthers and attention seekers. Let common sense prevail!

Housing

Always purchase the largest size cage that you can afford and fit in your household. Minimum cage size recommendations are the absolute smallest size of cage your bird can live in. When purchasing a cage, especially a larger cage, ensure that the bar spacing is appropriate for your bird. A cage for a larger parrot that has wide bar spacing is not suitable for a small finch, for example. The following is a chart that can serve as a guideline for selecting a cage with the correct bar spacing for your bird. The measurement are Width, Depth and Height.

Species

Min. Cage Size

Bar Spacing

Finches)

18"x18"x30"

1/4" to 1/2"

Canaries

18"x18"x24"

1/4" to 1/2"

Budgies

24"x16"x24"

1/2"

Cockatiels

30"x18"x24"

1/2" to 5/8"

Lovebirds
Parrotlets

24"x24"x24

1/2"

Ringneck Parakeets

30"x24"x36"

1/2" to 5/8"

Conures
Poicephalus

30"x20"x24"

5/8" to 3/4"

Caiques
Pionus
Jardine's

30"x24"x36"

5/8" to 3/4"

Amazons
Mini Macaws
Coffin's Cockatoos
African Greys

34"x24"x36"

3/4" to 1"

Large Cockatoos

36"x48"x48"

1" to 1.5"

Large Macaws

36"x48"x60"

1" to 1.5"

Cage Shape

Avoid round cages whenever possible. Because round cages lack corners, some birds may feel insecure in a round cage, making them stressed and creating behavioral problems such as aggression and feather plucking. For smaller, flighted birds, the length of the cage is more important than the height, as this will allow room for the birds to fly. There are many cages on the market that serve well as flight cages for smaller birds. Cages that are rectangular in shape are ideal.

Bar Orientation and Spacing

The spacing of the bars is an extremely important factor to consider when shopping for your pet parrot. Inappropriate sized spacing may pose a hazard and allow your pet to get his wings, beak, neck, or other part of its body caught between the bars. For parrots, bars that are horizontally oriented are important as this allows them to use their beak and feet to climb. For smaller birds such as finches and canaries that do not use their beaks and feet to climb, orientation of the bars is not as important.

Quality

Don't skimp on cage quality because of the price. Find the highest quality cage you can afford within your budget. A high quality cage should last you and your bird for years to come. A quality cage should be a brand that has been around for years and offers support and cage for your cage in the future. Many solid companies such as A & E and Kings offer replacement parts for their cages as well. Remember to select a cage color and design that fits your aesthetic needs as well & remember that whatever cage you choose will become a part of your home decor.

Easy to Maintain

Select a cage that is easy to maintain. You want to ensure that the tray pulls out easily, the bars are easy to wipe down, and that the seed catchers can be removed for ease of cleaning. You want a cage that is powdercoated or made of stainless steel. Avoid cages with plastic parts as these will be chewed and are hard to clean.

Inside the Cage

Perches

Provide 2 or 3 different perches, one wooden dowel, one rope and one concrete pedi-perch is recommended. This variation will keep your birds feet strong and healthy, keep the nails blunt and trimmed, and prevent sores. Make sure not to place food or water dishes under the perches as they can become soiled by droppings.

Cage Lining

Newspaper can be used as lining, although it will have be to changed daily and can smell. Another option is wood shavings that do not contain cedar. These have the advantage of being inexpensive, visually more attractive, and can be left in the cage for up to a week without odor if the shavings are deep enough. The best product to use are compressed wood fuel pellets, inexpensive and very effective, they are unfortunately heavy and can be problematic to dispose of. Never use grit paper, kitty litter, corncob or walnut shells as these can be risky for your birds.

Toys

Safe toys essential to your pet’s well-being. The key word here is “safe.” Make sure that the metal hardware or embellishments are made from bird safe substances to avoid metal toxicity. Insure that the toy is properly sized for your parrot species. Larger parrots often break off plastic parts and swallow them. Rope toys should be inspected frequently and strings trimmed to avoid neck or toe strangulation. Inspect bird toys for wear and tear at least weekly.Purchase several toys, keeping a couple in the cage and rotating them out on a regular basis, always having at least one chewable toy in the cage

Food and Water Dishes

stainless steel coop cups that screw onto the side of the cage are best, they last forever, are easy to clean and do not harbor bacteria as plastic cups can. If your bird has a habit of throwing cups around, larger plastic locking cups that affix to a base and cannot be moved can be used. Water bottles are also an option, as they provide clean water that does not get fouled, although a bowl of water should always be included in the cage as birds enjoy wetting some foods before eating and as a way to help birds keep their beaks clean.

Feeding

For best health I find that birds fed a 30/30/30/10 diet are the happiest and healthiest, and is a more realistic diet than an all pellet one. This is 30% seed, 30% pellet, 30% fresh vegetables and fruits, and 10% treats and special supplements.

Seed

No difficultly here. Just purchase appropriate seed for the species of bird, most seeds will have the species name right on the package. Avoid low cost seed or those with too many obvious treats or colored bits. These fancy seed types are marketed more towards the human buyer than the birds themselves. The best brand of seed is ABBA, with special mixes for all species. A lower cost alternative is Mother Nature's, and both can be purchased in large sacks and then frozen for additional savings. Make sure to change seed daily, no not reuse old seed and watch for bug infestation.

Pellets

By far the best diet for your bird. Pellet are extruded formulated food that contains all the nutrients your bird needs without extra fats and sugars that can make some birds overweight. Colorful pellets can entice birds to eat, and should be suitable sized. I find that the mini pellets are good for all birds up to and including cockatiels, and anything larger or any bird that eats by holding the food in its claws should have the large size pellets.

Water

Only use clean water, room temperature, and be sure to change it at least once a day, more often during the hot summer months or if the water gets fouled with food or droppings. Check several times a day to make sure there is water present in the cup.

Fresh Foods

A big part of a birds diet is fresh fruits and vegetables. Canned or frozen can be used, but must be changed out sooner, and is usually not as nutritious. High sugar fruits should be given in moderation, and bird droppings should be checked for diarrhea when introducing new foods. When parrots eat a lot of fruit high in water, this excess water will come out with the droppings and is normal. Favorite fresh foods are carrot, beet, squash and turnip grated, dark leafy greens such as kale, broccoli, apples, pears and banana. Sprouted seed, mung beans and peas are also a great and easy way to provide green nutrition to your birds, and can be included in daily feedings.

A list of safe and toxic foods are included in this reference guide, be sure to check all new foods before feeding it to your birds, foods such as avocado, onions, garlic and eggplant are toxic to birds.

Treats and Supplements

All birds deserve treats, and occasionally supplementing your birds diet is essential. Treats such as plain whole grain crackers are always appreciated and can help with training, and are a good way to entice your bird to your hand or back into their cage. Avoid high salt or flavored crackers. Supplements that can be fed are: cooked whole wheat pasta, boiled egg and hemp seed. Powdered vitamin supplements are generally not needed for birds fed a balanced and varied diet. Of course, birds at liberty out of cage will also show great interest in eating whatever you are eating. It is generally safe to give birds any healthy non-toxic food from the table, provided it is in small quantities.

Make sure that supplements such as a mineral block and a cuttlebone are always available to your bird.

General Care Tips

-Place bird cages with one side against a wall, avoid round cages, and include a snuggly hut or bird tent in the cage to give your bird more security and a place to hide when tired

-Birds are sensitive to smoke, strong smells and drafts. Keep the cage away from the kitchen and open windows, and out of direct sunlight.Take special care during the sunny summer months as birds can overheat, signs of this are rapid breathing and holding the wings away from the body.

-Birds do not need grit, and they do not need their cage covered at night. These ideas were popular in the past but now known to be unnecessary or even hazardous. Birds do need about 12 hours of sleep a day, and should be placed in a dark room if there is activity in your house very late at night. A small night light is highly recommended, allowing your bird to see perches at night in case they become startled. A completely dark room could cause your bird to flail around blindly, called night terrors, and cause themselves harm.

-In addition to cleaning food and water bowls, routinely wipe cages down with a bird safe disinfectant, such as Pet Focus. Bleach is extremely toxic when inhaled so it is best avoided if at all possible. You can use AviClean to dissolve stubborn poop and food stains, however, it does not disinfect. Change cage paper routinely. When food, poop and water mix, on tray paper or substrate, it makes a nasty breeding ground for deadly fungus and bacteria. If your bird’s immune system is compromised due to stress or poor diet, the outcome could be disastrous. Save yourself a lot of heart ache by making cleaning a part of your daily bird care plan.

-Regular baths rinse dust and dirt from your bird’s feathers, skin and even its sinuses. Baths moisturize skin, too. Bathing options include misting, bathing in a bowl, or even on a shower perch. Find the method that your bird most enjoys. You may have to train your bird to tolerate baths. Bathing also helps relieve your cleaning tasks by washing a lot of dust and dander down the drain. We recommend that you bathe your bird minimum of three times a week, even in the winter. Dusty species like cockatoos, cockatiels and African greys will benefit from daily bathing.

-Plan on “bird-proofing” your home, just as you might if you had a toddler in the house. Birds are incredibly curious and they’ll chew electric wires, explore electric outlets, chew up stuff that isn’t good for them etc.

-Birds instinctively mouth everything, leaving them susceptible to ingesting poisonous metals such as lead and zinc or other toxic items. You’d be amazed at the things in your home that contain lead. Anything that has been soldered contains lead. This includes lampshades, stained glass and stereo equipment. Lead is in curtain weights, old paint or painted cages from undeveloped countries such as Mexico or China, Chipped ceramic bowls contain lead. Costume jewelry, foil, aluminum cans, foil from the top of wine and beer bottles, floor linoleum and even min-blinds contain toxic lead and zinc. Symptoms of lead toxicity include in-coordination, seizures, anemia, and kidney damage. If your bird has any of these symptoms, seek veterinary care immediately.

-Keep your bird away from cats, dogs, ferrets, larger birds and other potentially harmful animals. Wild animals have even been known to enter pet doors and attack pet birds. Never allow small children to play with a pet bird unless they are closely supervised. Most dogs and cats react badly to birds at first, but can become used to them with a little time. Even with the friendliest dog or cat with a history of contact with birds should always be closely supervised.

Watch for the following signs of sickness in birds. Birds instinctively hide illness until it is critical. Learn the signs of a sick or injured bird.

  • Poor appetite and activity level

  • Sitting fluffed, especially on the bottom of the cage,

  • Sleeping more than usual

  • Respiratory symptoms such nasal discharge, sneezing, wheezing or crackling breathing sounds,

  • Unusual droppings or regurgitation that is not associated with hormonal behavior.


Protect Your Bird from Airborne Toxins

Birds are particularly sensitive to airborne toxins due to their super-efficient respiratory system. While their respiratory system enables them to fly, it poses problems in an enclosed household. Common airborne toxins include any non-stick surface, such as Teflon-coated cookware, drip pans, irons and self-cleaning ovens. Never allow Teflon to overhead. Toxic fumes from spray pesticides, wet paint, floor and rug cleaning solutions, fireplace smoke, air fresheners, incense, scented candles, hair spray, perfume, hot-oil frying, cleaning products, and burning plastic are deadly to birds. Cigarette or marijuana smoke is very toxic to birds, too. As a rule of thumb, avoid using any substance that gives off fumes or odors. Always remove your bird from the immediate area and air out your home if you smell any of the above odors.

When developing your bird care plan, take a look at your pots and pans and other household items that contain teflon. It could be an iron, to an electric cooking appliance. Always unplug electric appliances that contain teflon.

Recommended Daily Bird Care

  • Clean bowls with soapy water and offer fresh food and water once or twice a day, more often in hot humid weather when food and water spoil more quickly.

  • Change tray paper or inspect wood shavings

  • Mist feathers or shower especially for powder coated birds

  • Observe bird for any unusual behavior - activity level, evidence of injury, signs of illness etc.

  • Let bird out of cage on play stand to enjoy family activities at least once per day

  • Clean up around cage

  • Consider one training activity a day

  • Most importantly, if your bird is hand-fed and hand tame, be sure to interact with your bird. Stroking their head, letting it ride on your shoulder (be mindful of bites to ears or face) if you are comfortable doing so. Talking to your bird, active play, and just plain cuddling are essential to a happy, healthy, stress free bird.

Recommended Weekly Bird Care Plan Tasks

  • Wipe down cage, cage accessories and play stand with clean water and a pet safe detergent

  • Clean and mop floor around bird cage

  • Inspect area and food bin for bug or rodent infestation

  • Inspect all bird toys for excessive wear, dangerous parts, long strings,

  • Weigh bird and record

  • Examine bird more closely for evidence of injury or illness, look at beak, nails, eyes, nares

SAFE AND UNSAFE FOODS

The following are suitable for most parrots:

Vegetables:

  • Alfalfa

  • Artichokes

  • Asparagus

  • Beet Greens (cooked)

  • Beetroot

  • Broccoli

  • Brussels Sprouts (cooked)

  • Carrots

  • Cauliflower

  • Chard (cooked)

  • Chicory

  • Corn (on the cob)

  • Cress and mustard

  • Dandelion Greens

  • Endive

  • Green Beans

  • Kale

  • Okra

  • Parsley

  • Peas (still in the pod)

  • Peppers (including hot ones)

  • Potato (cooked)

  • Pumpkin

  • Soy Beans

  • Spinach (in small amounts: it can prevent a parrot absorbing calcium if eaten in large amount)

  • Spring Greens (Collard Greens)

  • Squash

  • Sweet Potato

  • Turnip Greens

  • Yam

Fruits

  • Apples (no seeds)

  • Apricots (no stones)

  • Bananas

  • Blueberries

  • Cantaloupe

  • Cherries (stoned, and not too sweet)

  • Cranberries

  • Figs

  • Grapes (dark ones are best)

  • Guava

  • Kiwi

  • Mango (no skin)

  • Nectarines (no stones)

  • Orange (seedless)

  • Papaya

  • Peach (no stones)

  • Persimmons

  • Pineapple

  • Plantains

  • Plums

  • Pomegranates

Nuts

Almonds

  • Cashews

  • Coconut shreds

  • Hazelnuts (filberts)

  • Macadamia nuts

  • Peanuts (monkey nuts)

  • Pecans

  • Pine nuts

  • Pistachios

  • Walnuts

Seed

Barley

  • Buckwheat

  • Canary

  • Corn (dried)

  • Flax seeds

  • Hemp seed

  • Millet (red, yellow, white)

  • Milo

  • Oats (whole)

  • Poppy

  • Pumpkin

  • Quinoa

  • Rice

  • Sesame

  • Spelt

  • Sunflower

  • Wheat groats

UNSAFE FOODS

***Before feeding anything new to your bird, do a quick google search, is ***** safe for my bird?

Chocolate: Theobromine and caffeine, which are both classified as methylxanthines, can cause hyperactivity, increased heart rate, tremors, possibly seizures, and potentially death when chocolate is ingested at a toxic dose. As a general rule of thumb, the darker and more bitter the chocolate, the more potentially toxic.

  • Avocado: All parts of the avocado plant contain the toxic principle, persin, and have been reported to be a cardiac toxin to birds. Small birds such as canaries and budgies are considered to be more susceptible so they might die within an hour or two, but did you know, clinical signs have been observed in other species like ostriches, signs like respiratory distress developing up to 12 hours after ingestion; death can occur within 1 to 2 days. Just a factoid, not that ANY exotic bird compares to the size of an ostrich but my point is size and dose matters.

  • Onion, garlic: Onion and garlic toxicity is well recognized in dogs and cats. Concentrated forms, like garlic powder or onion soup mix, are more potent than raw vegetables. One incident was reported that fatal toxicity occurred in a geese that was fed large amounts of green onions as well as one conure fed large amounts of garlic.

  • Comfrey: This green leaf herb is popular with some canary breeders, but studies in human medicine have shown it can cause liver damage.

  • Stone fruit pits or apple seeds: Apple seeds and fruit pits from cherry, plums, apricots, and peaches contain cyanide.

  • Foods high in fat, salt, and sugar: Although not technically toxic, unhealthy table foods can cause serious health problems in birds not to mention humans too. Strive for the comment, “you eat like a bird”!

  • Sugar-free candies: The sugar alternative, xylitol, has been associated with dangerously low blood sugar and liver damage in dogs.

SAFE AND UNSAEF HOUSEPLANTS

SAFE Plants

Magnolia – Magnolia spp.
Maidenhair Fern – Adiantum spp.
Manzanita – Arctostapylos manzanita
Mayapple – Podophyllum peltatum (fruit only)
Monkey Plant – Ruellia spp.
Moses-in-the-Cradle – Rhoeo spathacea
Moth Orchid – Phalaenopsis orchid
Nandina – Nandina domestica
Nasturtium – Tropaeolum majus
Natal Plum – Carissa macrocarpa
Nerve Plant – Fittonia verschaffeltti
Norfolk Island Pine – Araucaria excelsa
Orchids Brazilian, Fly, Christmas, Cocktail,
Dancing Doll, Easter,
Fiery Reed, Tiger,
Ghost Leafless,
Golden Lace,
Golden Shower,
Jewel, Lace, Leopard,
Old World, Pansy,
Rainbow, Scarlet,
Spice, Tailed
Parsley – Petroselinum spp.
Passionflower – Passiflora caerulea
Peppermint – Mentha x piperita
Peperomia – Peperomia spp.
Petunia – Petunia spp.
Pony Tail Palm – Beaucarnea recurvata
Popular – Populus spp.
Prayer Plant – Maranta leuconeura
Purple Passion, Purple Velvet – Gynura aurantiaca
Pyracantha – Pyracantha spp.
Raphiolepsis – Raphiolepis spp.
Rose – Rose – Rosa spp. (Non-toxic but beware of thorns)
Rubber Plant – Ficus elastica
Russian Olive – Elaeagnus augustifolia
Schefflera – Schefflera actinophylla
Sensitive Plant – Mimosa pudica
Spearmint – Mentha spicata
Spider Plant – Chlorophytum comosum
Spruce – Picea spp.
Squirrel’s Foot Fern – Davallia trichomanoides
Staghorn, Elk’s Horn – Platycerium bifurcatum
Star Jasmine – Trachelospermum jasminoides
String of Beads – Senecio rowleyanus
Swedish Ivy – Plectranthus australis
Sword Fern – Nephrolepis exaltata
Thistle – Cirsium spp.
Ti Plant – Cordyline terminalis
Violet – Viola spp.
Wandering Jew – Tradescantia fluminensis
Willow – Salix spp.
Zebra Plant – Aphelandra squarrosa

TOXIC PLANTS

Acokanthera – Acokanthera – Acokanthera spp. (all parts toxic, except ripe fruit)
Amaryllis – Amaryllis spp.
Angel’s Trumpet – Datura spp.
Apricot – Apricot – Prunus armeniaca (pits, leave, and bark)
Apple –
Apple – Malus spp., (seeds, leaves, bark)
Avocado – Persea Americana
Azalea – Rhododendron canadenis
Balsam Pear, Bitter Melon – Momordica charantia
Baneberry – Actaea rubra, A. pachypoda
Belladonna – Atropa belladonna
Bird of Paradise – Poinciana and related spp.
Bittersweet – Celastrus spp.
Black Locust – Robinia pseudoacacia
Boxwood – Boxus spp.
Braken Fern – Pteridium aquilinum
Buckthorn – Karwinskia humboldtiana and related spp.
Burdock – Arctium spp.
Buttercup – Ranunculus spp.
Caladium – Caladium spp.
Calla Lily – Zantedeschia aethiopica
Catclaw Acacia – Catclaw Acacia – Acacia greggii (twigs and leaves)
Caster Bean – Ricinus communis
Cherry – Cherry – Prunus spp. (pits, leaves and bark)
Chinaberry – Melia azadarach
Clematis – Clematis montana and related spp.
Coral Plant – Jatropha mutifida
Crocus (autumn) – Cholochicum autumnale
Cycad or Sago Cycas – Cycas revoluta
Daffodil – Narcissus tazetta
Daphne – Daphne mezerum
Death Camas – Zigadenus venenosus and other related species
Delphinium – Delphinium spp.
Devil’s Ivy – Epipremnum aureum
Dieffenbachia (dumb cane) – Dieffenbachia spp.
Eggplant – Eggplant – Solonum melongena (unripe/ripe fruit, leaves)
Elderberry –
Elderberry – Sambucus mexicana (roots, leaves, stems, bark)
Elephant’s Ears or Taro – Colocasia spp.
Euonymus – Euonymus spp.
European Pennyroyal – Mentha pulegium
Figs – Figs – Ficus spp. (sap)
Four o’clock – Mirabilis jalapa
Heliotrope – Heliotropium spp.
Henbane – Hyoscyamus niger
Holly – Holly – Ilex aquifolium and related spp. (leaves, berries)
Horse Chestnut – Aesculus hippocastanum and related spp.
Horse Nettle – Solanum carolinense
Hyacinth – Hyacinthus orientalis
Hydrangea – Hydrangea spp.
Iris – Iris spp.
Ivy – Ivy – Hedera spp. (Boston, English and some others)
Jack-in-the-Pulpit – Arisaema spp.
Jerusalem Cherry – Solanum pseudocapsicum and related spp. and related spp. (leaves, seeds and flowers)
Jonquil – Narcissus jonquilla
Juniper – Juniperus spp.
Lantana – Lantana camara
Larkspur – Delphinium spp.
Laurel – Kalmia spp.
Lily-of-the-Valley – Convalleria majalis
Lobelia – Lobelia spp.
Locoweed – Astragalus spp. and Oxytopis spp.
Lupine – Lupinus spp.
Marijuana – Cannabis sativa
Milkweed – Asclepias spp.
Mistletoe – Phoradendron villosum
Mock Orange – Philadelphus spp.
Moonseed – Menispermum canadense
Monkshood – Aconitum spp.
Morning Glory – Morning Glory – Ipomoea violacea (seeds)
Mushrooms – Amanita spp. And many others
Narcissus – Narcissus spp.
Oak – Quercus spp.
Oleander – Nerium oleander
Peach – Prunus persica‍ ‍(leaves, pit, bark)
Pear – Pyrus spp. . (leaves, seeds, bark)
Peony – Paeonia officinalis
Periwinkle – Vinca minor, Vinca rosea
Peyote – Lophophora williamsii
Philodendron – Philodendron spp. and Monstera spp.
Plum – Prunus spp. (leaves, pit, bark)
Poison Hemlock – Conium maculatum
Poison Ivy – Toxicodendron radicans, includes T. rydbergii
Poison Oak – Toxicodendron querciflium and T. diversilobum
Poison Sumac – Rhux vernix
Poinsettia – Euphorbia pulcherrima
Poppy – Papaver somniferum and related spp.
Pokeweed – Phytolacca Americana
Potato – Solanum tuberosum‍ ‍(sprouts, leaves, berries, green tubers)
Pothos – Eprimemnum aureum
Primrose – Prmula spp.
Privet – Ligustrum vulgare
Ragwort – Senecio jacobea and related spp.
Red Maple – Acer rubrum
Rhododendron – Rhododendron spp.
Rhubarb – Rheum rhabarbarum‍ ‍(leaves)
Rosary Pea – Abrus precatorius
Sage – Salvia officinalis
Shamrock Plant – Medicago lupulina, Trifolium repens, Oxalis acetosella
Skunk Cabbage – Symplocarpus foetidus
Snowdrop – Galanthus nivalis
Sorrel – Rumex spp., Oxalis spp.
Spurges – Euphorbia spp.
Star of Bethlehem – Ornithogalum umbellatum
Sweet Pea – Lathyrus odoratus
Tobacco – Nicotiania spp.
Tomato – Lycopersicon esculentum‍ ‍(stems and leaves)
Tulip – Tulipa spp.
Virginia Creeper – Panthenocissus quinquefolia
Vetches – Vicia spp.
Water Hemlock – Cicuta spp.
Waxberry – Symphoricarpos albus
Wisteria – Wisteria spp.
Yew – Taxus spp

LIST OF TOXIC DANGERS

There are many drugs and household products that have not been tested for safety around birds. Birds are about ten times more sensitive than we are to toxins in the air, so even things that may not be dangerous for us can be deadly for birds.

As always, use common sense in everything! You do not have to change your entire household for your bird, just be aware of the risks and try to minimize them.

THINGS THAT CONTAIN LEAD, ZINC OR COPPER
Drapery weights, fishing weights, Cuckoo clock weights
Old paint (underneath layers in older homes)
Galvanized wire or hardware cloth used to build cages (has little
globs of solder at wire junctions) or any item that has been soldered,
such as water pipes
Real or imitation stained glass
Electrical and speaker wires
Many antiques, including bird cages
Foreign made cages or those that have been painted with unknown paint
Old bells not made as bird toys
Toy penguins made for parakeets
Ceramics and glazed pottery
Batteries, Tiffany lamps, Ammunition, Costume Jewelry or metal beads
Mirror backing, Metallic wrapping paper
Toothpaste tubes, Champagne and wine corks and foil
Linoleum, Caulk and drywall
Snaps, keys, some zippers
Artist or hobby paints, Rust resistant paints
Galvanized metal bowls, chains and quick links, use stainless steel
Clips and Staples, Carpenter's Nails and Nuts
Hanging window or shade pulls.
Pennies since 1982 and Monopoly game pieces (98% zinc)

OTHER INGESTIBLE TOXINS
***PEOPLE GERMS ON FOOD: a leading cause of infection is letting your bird eat food with human germs or kissing. Birds won't catch our viruses, but the bacteria normally in our mouths are dangerous.
***Alcohol, ***Chocolate, Caffeine, Avocados
***All medications for humans should be considered unsafe for birds
unless directed by a veterinarian
Soft PVC pipes or toys (many children's toys are made of this)
Pressure treated lumber, always use untreated wood
Boric acid (safe to use for pest control if birds can't eat It or
breathe the dust)
Cosmetics including hair dye, hair spray, perfume, shaving cream, nail
polish and remover, denture cleaning solutions, etc.
Fertilizers, herbicides, and other chemicals blowing in open windows
Moldy seed, which may appear as dust. Bugs in seed are harmless,
and can be killed by freezing food for 48 hours before opening.
***Food that has spoiled by being left in the cage too long

Excessive salty foods, give unsalted peanuts instead
Fruits or vegetables that have not been washed to remove pesticides
Magic markers and highlighters, Antifreeze

INHALED TOXINS
***Cedar shavings put out irritating fumes, cat litter is very dusty
and irritating, ground corncob may grow Aspergillosis fungus when wet.

***Most cleaning products, especially Febreeze (only toxic when wet,
safe after it has dried), drain cleaners, lye, bleach fumes (safe to
use as disinfectant if rinsed thoroughly), and all aerosol products.
Scented candles, potpourri, plug-in air fresheners, incense, mothballs
New carpet (should be aired for several days), carpet deodorizer
powders (when vacuumed up, will create toxic particles in the air).
Paint, paint removers, varnish, shellac, Glue guns
***Insecticides (close windows when spraying outdoors, do not leave
bird in house when exterminating).
***Cigarette, cigar or marijuana smoke (please smoke in another room,
although small amounts will not be harmful, chronic exposure can cause
respiratory problems or cancer).
Overheated cooking oil
Yule logs and fire color additives
Overheated plastic cooking utensils or any burning plastic
Highly fragranced lotions, creams, perfumes, deodorants, hairspray
Spray starch, floor polish, shoe polish
Permanent wave solutions
Natural gas leaks, possible from newly installed appliances that
cannot be detected by normal means
Gasoline, kerosene, turpentine fumes

TEFLON COATED ITEMS
These items are probably safe with normal use, but can put out toxic
fumes when overheated that will kill birds almost instantly. You will
not smell the fumes or see smoke.

***Teflon or Silverstone coated pans, pots, teakettles (look inside!),
waffle irons, pancake grills, electric skillets, deep fryers, crock
pots, popcorn poppers, woks, pizza pans, coffee makers, bread
machines, tortilla presses, broiler pans and George Foreman grills
***Self-cleaning ovens (dangerous to run the cleaning setting with
birds nearby)
Cooking bags
Irons and ironing board covers
Space heaters or heat lamps with nonstick coating inside, *** newly
installed furnaces (run on high for several hours with birds out of
the house).